THREE FOR THIRTY-FIVE

Agio Restaurant Master Chef Joseph Heidenreich recently created a special three-course menu paired imaginatively with three ale styles from Upland Brewing Company. The menu was $35 for the whole dinner and was offered for ten consecutive days beginning Friday June 16th and continuing through to Sunday June 25th.

"I decided to prepare a special beer-paired menu for several reasons," states Heidenreich.

"Number one, I love beer. I spent many years as a chef working in some of Germany's major hotels where I came to appreciate great beer, and Upland beer is excellent by any standard. Plus, it's brewed right here in Indiana. Second, we're coinciding with ëAles for Tales,' a benefit we support every year and with the 'Brew-Ha-Ha' festival at the Phoenix Theater on the 24th  - and that's always fun. They shut down the whole 700 block of North Avenue, so it's a big street fair. Third, I wanted to test my imagination by thoughtfully considering the nuances of Upland's styles."

Heidenreich's "test" has proved to be both imaginative and intriguing.

Grilled Quail, Drunken Goat Cheese, Green Chili Empanada, Tropical Compote

ALE: Upland Valley Weizen
Upland Valley Weizen is a German-style hefeweizen with hints of green apple, banana, and cloves.

Upland's Weizen is light yet extremely complex. The notes of clove and banana combined with the citrus and modest bitterness inspired me to pair it in an appetizer that would be straightforward, yet subtle. I am particularly fond of the Drunken Goat Cheese that will be nicely offset by the Weizen. In addition, the spiciness of the green chili empanada [stuffed corn tortilla] combining with the tropical notes and sweetness of the compote that is spooned over it will echo the somewhat "tropical" nature of the Weizen.

Review: Quail, Drunken Goat Cheese and Upland Wheat, I love all three of thee

Sweet Pepper-Crusted Pork Steak, Green Beans, Gorgonzola Polenta, Cilantro Oil

ALE: Upland Dragonfly IPA

Generous amounts of  malt and seven hop additions combine to give this India Pale Ale a floral nose and classic bitter finish.

Upland's Dragonfly IPA is not as hoppy or as "bitter" as many other IPAs which makes it perfect to counterbalance something like the pork steak, especially with the richness of Gorgonzola in Polenta. A sip of IPA will instantly cleanse the palate and keep the flavors of this dish bright and alive throughout the course.

Review: The Pork was perfectly cooked and I loved the pepper crust. The green beans, barely blanched, were wonderful. Polenta, while never my favorite to begin with, was very, very cheesy sweet. It went home. The Upland Dragonfly did not.

Belgium Chocolate Hazelnut Cheese Cake, Espresso Brule Cream Sauce

ALE: Bad Elmer's Porter

Medium-bodied, rich ruby brown, and extremely smooth, Upland's Bad Elmer's Porter offers hints of roasted grains and dark chocolate. Bronze Medal winner in 2004 at the Great American Beer Festival.

Upland's Porter, though dark, is not really heavy, as is, say, Guinness Stout. The body is balanced, neither too sweet nor too bitter.  Bad Elmer's has a wonderful creamy quality, and there are solid notes of chocolate and coffee. These match well with this rich, complex cheesecake. The Brule Cream Sauce, which might overpower a plain cheesecake, is an excellent offset to the rich Belgian chocolate we use, and in turn is complemented well by the gentle hoppiness of the Porter.

Review: A heavenly, belt-loosening pairing as you can well imagine!

Thanks, Agio!