On The Road

Since I'm going to Denver for the Great American Beer Festival and since I have more time than sense and since I like brewpubs it makes sense (at least to me) to take a few extra days and drive out. Brewpubs? There are lots. So pack the wife and lets get going. We have 7 days to get there, 4 days there, and 3 days back. Should be fun.
Following these brewpub reviews there's a travelogue of other interesting spots along the way.
The best beers at these 26 brewpubs? We loved:
- Schlafly Tap Room Number Fifteen - Dunkelweizen with lots of clove and banana, lots of malt, good balance. Beautiful beer. Spectacular really but lacking a certain breadiness. Best American example?
- Blind Tiger Smokey The Beer - Dark mahogany. Initially a little smoke but more of a rye taste actually. Once it warms there's much Weyermann smoked malt. Ahhh.
- Lb English-Style Pale Ale - Reddish copper. Balanced to a T. Their best. Sweet, bitter, sweet again with caramel. I want the recipe.
- Cheshire Cat Cask Conditioned Arrogant Brit ESB - Balanced and strong. Beautiful beer. A+ Superlative.
- Bull & Bush Cheery Creek Kriek 2005 Vintage - Start with a Belgian Brown; age in a Wild Turkey barrel for 2 years. Add sour cherries and Brett and age for another 6 months. Intense! Whisky is beat to the mat by the black cherry strength. Cherry, Belgian sourness, and Whiskey in about equal parts.
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Saint Louis, MO Area
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Morgan Street Brewery
St. Louis. MO
Sprawling multi-building empire between 2nd and 3rd street in a yuppie revitalization trade zone. Mix of brick, industrial venting, cracked old varnish, and tablecloths. Food and late night partying.
Hint: take the Eads Bridge and turn right immediately past the Mississippi. Park on 3rd St. Hiking distance from the Arch.
$4 / 16oz pint

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Generally smooth and drinkable. Both necessary for the tourist trade. Still, some imaginative recipes.
- Honey Wheat - unfiltered German wheat with little clove and a little sweet honey. Goes right down.
- Irish Stout (CO2) - Lighter than Guinness without the roastiness. Still quaffs quickly.
- Vienna - Little aroma, a touch of roasty. More of caramel.
- Golden Pilsner - "Bohemian" but not quite.
- Decades IPL - Assertive lager with lots of Noble hops but without overwhelming bitterness.
Also
Octoberfest
Pumpkin Vienna
Dopplebock
Graham Cracker Porter "hint of graham crackers"
Maibock
Krystal "Light American style"
Steam Lager
Red Lager "fuller-bodied Vienna"

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Schlafly Tap Room
St. Louis, MO
Rambling brick warehouse that makes their in-house beer on premises. Bottled beer comes from a different site. Large restaurant area and a place for regulars.

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Big selection of distinctive beers. Their fame is deserved.
- Number Fifteen - Dunkelweizen with lots of clove and banana, lots of malt, good balance. Beautiful beer. Spectacular really but lacking a certain breadiness. Best American example?
- Belgian Dubble - Also excellent. See the style guide for detailed description. Malt, sweet, thick.
Also
Hefeweizen
80 Shilling
Pilsner
Organic Ale
Pale Ale
Oktoberfest
American Pale Ale
Oatmeal Stout
Biere de Garde
Pumpkin Ale
Cask Conditioned American Pale
Cask Conditioned Biere de Garde
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Square One Brewery
St. Louis, MO
Split into thirds - an indoor bar, rooms in back, and a brick patio. All of about equal size. Neighborhood bar and casual restaurant.
Great fast service.
$3.75 / 16oz pint

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Good brewers with a large selection while having a choice for drinkers new to craft beers.
- Oktoberfest - Good middle of road. A read without much nuance.
- Dunkelweizen - Big sweet banana and chocolate. A little clove in back. Sweet but quite quaffable. Much sweeter than Schlafly's.
Also
Light
Park Avenue Pale Ale
IPA
Stout (Irish)
Wit
Belgian Pale (Summit hops)
Pumpkin
Bavarian Weizen
Single Malt Scotch Ale (were out, darn it) (uses home-smoked malt)
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Trailhead Brewing
St. Charles, MO
High-volume, loud, multi-level 20-something place near the Casino in a fake old downtown area. Still, a very attractive New-England looking building.
All glasses are kept in the fridge - don't bother to ask for a warm glass.
I'm old. I get "minimum service". It's a casino term.
$3.75 / 16oz pint

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What do you expect from a place that sells lots of Red Bull & vodka. And Red Bull & beer.
- Spiced Pumpkin Ale - Dark orange. No head. In fact, an unattractive oily film on top. Mild pumpkin taste with cinnamon and nutmeg of course. Taste on this is sort of, well, malt syrupy. Sorry.
Also
Old Courthouse Stout
Missouri Brown
Trailhead Red (Galena & Willamette hops)
Riverboat Raspberry
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Wm. D. Alandale
Kirkwood, MO
Large prairie-style bright an cheery with lots of light from windows and mirrors. Interesting tea room up front.
$3.75 / 16oz pint
$9.75 growler refills
Sampler: $4 / 8x2.5oz.

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Beers are good and distinctive with a wide selection. But they made a fatal error with me, their first customer of the day. Took the shrinkwrap off the taps and started pouring my 2.5 oz samples without purging the lines.
- American Wheat - Pale yellow w/ chill haze. A bit phenolic; probably that first-pour problem.
- American IPA - Very highly hopped w/ Cascades.
- Doppelbock. Big sipping beer. Some almost cinnamon spiciness.
- Amber - Intro amber with slight caramel.
- Kölsch - Proper color but suffered badly from sitting in the line all night.
- Octoberfest - Malty Vienna. Acceptable.
- Chocolate Stout (CO2) - Bitter dark chocolate. A+
Also
Platinum Blonde Lager
Vienna Lager
Bronze lager
Oatmeal Stout
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Central Missouri
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Augusta Brewing
Augusta, MO
They have a few tables inside but it's mainly a beer garden on a hilltop on the edge of tourist town in Missouri wine country. Did you know there's a Missouri wine country?
Alongside the Katy Trail, the normal daytime customer is a hiker or biker. Heck, the whole place is a bit of a hippie commune. Love it.
Owned by Square One.


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Beers are generally light but clean and everyday-drinkable.
- Belgian Pale Ale - Not as Belgian as one would hope. Mostly Fuggles bitter.
- Hefeweizen - Not cloudy at all. Yellow with blue tinge. American-style
- Tannhauser - Malty American Pale Ale. Excellent but almost hopless. Could drink lots of this.
- Belgian Saison - No extremes, no spices. Splash of Belgian yeast character
- Octoberfest - To style, right at the 75 percentile of the style guide.
Also
Augusta Blonde
Hyde Park Stout

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Flat Branch Pug & Brewing
Columbia, MO
Way too small for it's popularity even with additions over the years. There's a large porch seating area in front under trees but on a Friday evening it's filled to the brim, there's a waiting list for both inside and outside (two different sets of carry-me-til-I-beep-and-flash signallers), and the standees at the large bar are 3 deep.
$3.75 / 18 oz pint
Sampler: $6 for 6x5oz


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Been around a long time and have developed standards that are locally well-known by name. Still not afraid to experiment.
- Green Chili Beer - A little light on the heat for my taste. Good pepper taste comes through.
- Marzen - Floral and unpleasant. Didn't finish
- Schwarzbier - Very pleasant chocolate dominates. Not as thick as German varieties.
- Hefeweizen - Suitably cloudy. Mostly yellow. Rich wheat malt. Light on Banana/clove but very satisfying. A.
- British IPA - Not today's IPA over there but the way it should be. Lots of Fuggles with the intensity of an American IPA - about 40 IBU.
- Oil Change Stout - Completely opaque, completely black. Good thickness. Hint of coffee but more roastiness. Not toasty. Over carbonated but they sell a lot if it.
- Cask Conditioned ESB - In bitterness, strength, and overall presence it's stronger than English standards. Thick, sparkler-induced head. Will put hair on your chest.
Also:
Honey Wheat
Brown
Katy Trail Pale Ale
Irish Red
American Pale Ale
Cask Conditioned Irish Red
Disclaimer: I've known the owner, Tom Smith, since the 80s and have a soft spot for retired Shareware guys. Remember ProComm? That was him.
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5th Street Brewpub
Sedalia, MO
Big old bar from way back in old downtown. Looks like the owner loves beer with 20 taps and 60 bottles. Sells a LOT more of that than their own beer.
Visualize the Columbus Bar with pool tables, cowboys, and great onion rings.

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There's been conversation recently about just who is the smallest brewery in America. This is probably it! The owner brews in half-barrel cut-open kegs (a Brew-Magic system). Usually brewing once a week, that makes less than 30 bbl annually. And for this the Feds need to approve the recipes and tax the output. Sheesh.
- Pale - Light aroma. Dull brown color. Pleasant but non-descript. Not at all hoppy.
- Porter - Appropriately thick. Black Patent malt dominates.
- Belgian - A Dubbel? Dark dull brown. Very plain. The Belgianness comes out a lot more once warm but it's still a bit light.
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Kansas City area
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75th Street Brewery
Kansas City, MO
TV-oriented sports bar with busy weekends.
This is one of a chain of bars in the KC area. They also owned the 23rd Street Brewery in Lawrence which still shares some recipes.
Their mug club lets you provide your own mug, which adds to the museum-like display. Nominally it should be a 22oz mug but some are bigger than a liter. Go figure.

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Solid beers.
- Elevation IPA - "Fresh hop". Typically big American IPA with smooth attack and bitter finish. Very good.
Also:
Belgian IPA
Cow Town Wheat
Royal Raspberry Wheat
Good Hope IPA (American)
Possum Trot Brown
Muddy Mo Dry Irish Stout
Irish Red

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McCoys Public House
Kansas City, MO
Megapub in hot, hot party zone where the competition for customers is fierce and there's lots of music and bars to draw in crowds. Men: bring a date with cleavage. Women: no date needed, just bring cleavage.
Professional staff inside and in big treed garten out front. Occasional smells of malt and BBQ sauce.
$3.75 / 16 oz pint

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Bigger selection than they need to just satisfy the party crowd, which probably helps bring in a lot more traffic.
- Octoberfest - Dark with long-lasting 1/2 inch foamy head. Creamy mouthfeel. Strong and more bitter than most. So good I had 2.
- Newcomb's Brown - Deep mahogany with the same head. Nice American Brown.
Also:
Landing Light Lager
Red Light Raspberry
Hog Pound Brown
Newcomb's IPA
Newcomb's Dry Stout (Irish, Nitro)
Unfiltered Wheat
Red Ale
Peach
Cask Conditioned American IPA
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Amerisport Brewpub
Kansas City, MO
Inside a huge Ameristar casino. 'Nuf said. Completely ringed by TVs as if it's a betting parlor. Huge vats in the back behind glass.
$4 / 20 oz pint. All served in a wheat glass.

Yes, it's inside. The dome is painted sky blue.
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They make exactly what you'd expect to serve to the casino crowd watching an HBO fight. They sell much more Coors than their own beer.
- Hardball Dark - Possibly a Schwartz recipe or maybe Michelob Dark. Anyway smooth, medium sweet, balanced, and agreeable.
Also:
Knockout Blond
Red Zone Lager
1/2 Court Light

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The Power Plant
Parkview, MO
Railroad theme including an old steam engine boiler intact looming behind the bar. Fits the tourist/antique town perfectly.
Motto: If you ever reach total enlightenment while drinking a beer, I bet it makes beer shoot out your nose.

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Solid beers that tend to the sweet end.
- Derailed Red Ale - Very dark cherry color. Smooth. Malt is foremost with little hop character.
- South Bound Nut Brown - Dark Porter color. Dark Porter taste. Lots of Black Patent sweetness.
- Hop Harvest Rye - Light brown/orange. Hoppy. Rye comes through.
Also:
Steamboat Stout (Nitro)
Col. Parks Pale Ale
Walnut Creek Wheat
Blackberry Wheat

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Granite City
Kansas City, KS
An outlot in a shopping mall and the entire concept is built on that demographic. Think Applebees with a brewery.
This is a big chain with over a dozen outlets (Indiana will get two in 2008 - South Bend and Ft. Wayne).
Glasses kept on ice. "Makes the beer much easier to pour - eliminates foaming" and any head.
$4.25 / 20 oz pint

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They have a unique concept to their brewing - all the wort is made at the home plant in Rapid City SD and trucked to the stores. The restaurant managers see to the fermentation and dispense. Not an onerous task as this involves filling the tank and pitching yeast about once a week.
- Oktoberfest - Nice. Middle of road.
- Brother Benedict's Bock - Dark brown. Munich, Chocolate, and Carahell. Northern Brewer and Tettnang. Mild, balanced. Drinkable.
Also:
December - Scottish
March - IrishRed
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Central Kansas
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23rd Street Brewery
Lawrence, KS
Yes, an outlot in a shopping mall but not a bit like Granite City.


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Knowledgeable service, a wide range of beers, enthusiasm, and passion.
- Golden Pale - Suitably hoppy British Golden Ale. Well named.
- Wave The Wheat - American wheat. Darkish yellow. Lightish taste.
- Raspberry Wheat - Raspberry extract added after fermentation. Tart rasp background. Not pushy.
- Ole' Factory IPA - 56 IBU and tastes every bit of it.
- Crimson Phog - Irish Ale. Smooth mouthfeel and taste. A laid-back beer.
- Hawktoberfest - Red Marzen. Few are outstanding, this isn't either, just quite drinkable.
- Papa's Pils - Unagressive hops. Honey? Discernable East European yeast.
- Pumpkin - Sweet pie. Plenty but not too much.
Past home to Micah Weichert, now at Vigo in Terre Haute making Brugge and Wabash beers. Bucky, here, is the new brewer.
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Free State Brewing
Lawrence, KS
College town downtown local. Brewery takes up more space than the restaurant if you include the 2nd floor kegging room.
Imaginative food menu from an obviously unrestrained flavor combiner.
$3 / 14 oz pint
$2.25 / 10 oz split
Samples: $1.25 / 5 oz

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Nothing over-imaginative. Just solid, tasty stuff.
- Octoberfest - Bright orange with white head. Very little aroma. Dark taste. Well balanced 21 IBU of Perle & Hersbrucher.
- Ad Astra - Dark amber English Best Bitter. Caramel, Munich. Northern Brewer and Fuggles to 24 IBU. Malt attack then earthy hops. Their original beer.
- Liberty Wheat - German Dunkelweizen. Dark copper. Aroma of bread and banana. Leaves a follow that stays around a long time.
Also:
Wheat State Golden
Copperhead Pale
Black & Tan
Hop Picker Pale (American)
Oatmeal Stout (w/ N. Brewer and Fuggles)
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Blind Tiger
Topeka, KS
Florida-looking place of unpainted wood exterior and 2 levels of patio. Requisite ring of ESPN TVs. Inside is a maze of small rooms on many levels.

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Wow, 12 beers on tap. A lot more variety and talent than you'd expect looking at the place.
- Smokey The Beer - Dark mahogany. Initially a little smoke but more of a rye taste actually. Once it warms there's much Weyermann smoked malt. Ahhhh. FLASH - it won a Gold Medal at this year's GABF.
- Oktoberfest - Bright orange with fluffy white head. Good American interpretation.
Also:
Raw Wheat
County Seat Wheat
Raspberry Wheat
Holy Grail Pale Ale
Blind Tiger Amber
Tiger Paw Porter
Maibock
Tail Wind Rye
Java Porter
Twin Tigers Double IPA
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Little Apple Brewing
Manhattan, KS
Strip mall local's food and beerery. Neighborly. Steaks and sandwiches the specialties.
$3 / 16oz pint
$2.25 / 11 oz split
Samplers: $5 for 5 x 5 oz.

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Big beers.
- Wildcat Wheat - American style. Big flavor, even with a lemon slice floating on top.
- Prairie Pale Ale - Dull Orange. IPA strength with mostly Brit hops.
- Riley's Red Ale - Reddish copper. Maximum overuse of Caramel malt. Wow.
- Snakebite Bitter - Sweet then bitter, but it happens in about .75 seconds.
- Bison Brown - Porter brown. Porter roast malt. Big Porter, period. Chocolate and coffee hidden away and findable.
- XXBlack Angus Stout - 6 malts, US hops. Nitro.
Also:
Black and Tan
Rage 'n' Razz

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Lb
Hays, KS
Lb stands for Liquid Bread. It's part of Gella's Diner in a gutted and renovated downtown area just off main street of a surprisingly small town.
A full-width window shows off the big brewhouse. Last brewpub before the Rockies.

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Big variety and a big range of biggness.
- 01 Pale Ale -American. Almost yellow. Very light in color and hopping.
- 02 American Wheat - Yellow. Average.
- 03 Amber Ale - Another light-to-style offering.
- 13 Belgian Witbier - Bluish yellow. Still light. Arrgh, I want some taste.
- 04 American Brown - Malty, robust. A little acrid/stale but not objectionable.
- 24 IPA - Bright copper. Nice British ESB.
- 16 Pumpkin Ale - Yep. Pie, but less piey and more pumpkin than most.
- 06 Oatmeal Stout - Roasty, toasty, malt. No chocolate or coffee. Thick and Chewy. A+
- 34 English-Style Pale Ale - Reddish copper. Balanced to a T. Their best. Sweet, bitter, sweet again with caramel. I want the recipe.
Also:
07 Raspberry Wheat Ale
08 Lemon Ale (Radler)
09 American Hefeweizen
35 Temptation Ale (Rye)
36 Maple Wheat
Yes, the number their beers the same way Foghorn Leghorn numbers his feathers.
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Denver Area
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Michael's Italian Bistro & Brewery
Littleton, CO
Just re-opened a week ago. Was Mill Steakhouse which evidently had a poor reputation. Now chef-owned with a new brewer and all new beers.
$3.50 / 16 oz pint

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Not yet steady on their legs but promising.
- Pilsner - Yellow. Clean and crisp. Commendable.
- IPA - "Italian Pale Ale". Darkish copper with a bit of Belgian lace. Underhopped or just right balance for their clientele. Quite good as an American Pale Ale.
Also:
Vatican Stout
Beer menu will be added as tanks get filled to give 9 selections.
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Ironworks Brewery and Pub
Alameda, CO
New owner also. A strip mall local sold due to "bad reputation" again. They kept the brewer though.
Still looks like a place for pool leagues and weekend party rednecks.
$3.75 / 16 oz pint

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Interesting selection without much nuance.
- Oatmeal Stout - Solid, dry. Grainy.
- Cranberry Wheat - Tart wheat. Not cranberry specifically, not even fruity. Acts like the brewer added a can of tart.
- Chinook IPA - Orange. Orange aroma. 60+ IBU. Interesting hop juice.
Also:
American Wheat
Chocolate Pumpkin Stout
Amber
Porter
Lakewood Light
Java Porter
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Cheshire Cat
Arvada, CO
An old Victorian house provides a retreat on a busy northside street. Could be transplanted from a small English village, including gregarious locals, wall-bench seating, small stools, and one TV - off. Dining areas upstairs in in small parlor rooms.
4 hand-pulls with, sadly, only 2 active.

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Brit. Brit. Brit. One of the best ESBs I've ever had.
- Cask Conditioned Arrogant Brit ESB - Balanced and strong. Beautiful beer. A+ Superlative.
- Cask Conditioned Calico - They often mix the last of one batch with the first of another. This was and ESB & Brown. Smooth & malty. Worthy. Diacetyl comes thru when warmed.
Also:
Pussycat Wheat
IPA (Brit)
Black Cat Stout
Black Currant Ale
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Downtown Denver
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Bull & Bush
Denver, CO
When we pulled up to this after leaving the Cheshire Cat, the big parking lot, large building, shrill exterior lighting, and loud party atmosphere inside turned us off. BUT the beer won us over.
Now owned by the second generation, they've expanded the brewhouse to a separate building out back.
This place can get you in trouble, it sure got me in trouble.

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Selection of Strong Ales and a brewer who will try anything. They rolled out a special selection from the cellar just for GABF visitors.
- Royal Oil 2005 Vintage - English Barley Wine. Sweet. Aged in Oak for 18 months. 12.5%
- Release the Hounds Barley Wine 2006 Vintage - Completely unreigned. The Dick the Bruiser of their selection. 11.5%
- Cheery Creek Kriek 2005 Vintage - Start with a Belgian Brown; age in a Wild Turkey barrel for 2 years. Add sour cherries and Brett and age for another 6 months. Intense! Whisky is beat to the mat by the black cherry strength. Cherry, Belgian sourness, and Whiskey in about equal parts.
- The Tower ESB - Reddish copper. Dry finish with a tinge of caramel. Excellent marriage.
Also:
Happy Hop Pilsner
Allgood Ale
Hail Brau Hefeweizen
MAN Beer - (American IPA)
Autumn Fire lager
Big Ben Brown Ale
36th Anniversary Strong Belgian Pale Ale
Stonehenge Stout
The Legend of the Liquid Brain Imperial Stout 2005
Yule Fuel Lambic 2005
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| Downtown Denver has a good 5-pub crawl starting with the Rock Bottom near the Convention Center, a free tram ride across the business district, then Wynkoop, the Chop House, Coors Sandlot at the Rockies stadium, and Breckenridge. Inexplicably the Sandlot was closed even though the streets almost teemed with GABF fairgoers and people trying to buy tickets to the NLCS series game. Oh, and Flying Dog and Great Divide are just blocks away from Coors field also but normally don't have an open tasting room. |
Rock Bottom
Denver
The flagship of the chain. Got there during typical crowded noon-time shift, leading to sloppy wet service.

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The Rock Bottom chain allows each brewer to create their own recipes and provides a career path for the best.
- 294 Imperial Stout - That's the number of days it spent in a Wild Turkey barrel. A thick, thick, black creature. Massive malt. Background of liquorice, bourbon, prune.
Also:
Lumpy Dog American Light
Buff Golden Ale
16th Street American Wheat
Falcon American IPA
Red
Molly Brown
Mad Cow Milk Stout
Happy Pils
5'10" Blonde
Weizen
Uberwit
Cask Conditioned IPA
Cask Conditioned Molly Brown
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Wynkoop Brewing Company
Denver
Huge venerable place that's getting well-used.

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Been around since, well, forever but still making new brews.
- B2K Schwarzbier - Appropriately black. Nice and thick. No anise, just malt.
- Patty's Chili Beer - Copper color. Very little heat. Lots of chili pepper flavor.
Also:
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Denver Chop House
Denver, CO
Rock Bottom's informally elegant steak place. White shirt / black vest staff. Very professional.

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It's a Rock Bottom. That means solid beers throughout.
- Dark Munich - Good recipe. Made with Brown Ale malts, some rye, and lager yeast.
- Dortmunder - Golden. Balanced. Style-centric.
- Rye - Yellow. Clean. A shade less than crisp.
Also:
Dry Stout
Wheat
Pale Ale
Red Ale
Pilsner
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Breckenridge Brewery
Denver, CO
Big brewery's retail outlet.

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Their "471" beers are the small-batch series.
Here, I admit I stopped drinking for a while and headed back to the GABF.
Also:
Avalanche Amber
2220 Red Ale
Vanilla Porter
Hefe Proper
Trademark Pale Ale
Oatmeal Stout
Ball Park Brown
Autumn Ale
471 Extra ESB
471 IPA
Thunderstout.
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There's more than beer along I-70. We did some sightseeing also. After all, how do you get a designated driver to travel 2000 miles without a promise greater than sitting in bars?
Ran across a covered bridge in mid-Illinois on a road parallel to US40 near Casey. Built in the Civil War era, the original went walkabout about 1910. Rebuilt by the county in 2005.

In mid-Missouri, the town of Arrow Rock was a jumping-off spot for the Santa Fe Trail and thrived until the railroad went west. The main street is now rebuilt antique shops but some old buildings are open for un-accompanied inspection. There's a state visitor center two blocks from downtown which is the best way to investigate the area.

They think this was the courthouse.
Just north of Sedalia, MO an eccentric lawyer built Bothwell Lodge on top of a bluff over the span of 30 years. It's all built from stone on the property. Considering his wife died young, he had no kids, and the tour guide kept insisting he liked to be alone, why did he have 31 rooms? All the furnishing are still there from the 1930s when he died. The tour is leisurely, informed, and gets into all the nooks like the furnace room. The DC electric system run by a gas engine still has the original glass-walled Edison batteries.



There's a Jazz Museum in Kansas City but don't bother unless you're going for a night-time set. short overviews of Ella, Duke, Bird, Satchmo, and not much more.
We always look for legendary restaurants along the way. For that status, Alcapulco Joe's, Nick's Kitchen, and Wall's Drive In have nothing on Arthur Bryant's BBQ in KC. Been there forever. There's always a line for the order window. The ribs and sauces are excellent. Less so the Pulled Pork and Brisket. Lots of family traffic complete with screaming children. You've been warned. Personally, Oklahoma Joe's might be a better try if you can do just one - a BBQ in a gas station.
Just north of Kansas City, the paddlewheeler Arabia hit a snag and sank in 1856. In 1987 a group of 5 guys figured it must be in the middle of a cornfield (since rivers move their banks continuously). They approached the farmer and he told them two efforts had been made to find it years back because of rumors of 400 barrels of whiskey on board. Using modern tools they found it in 2 hours and quickly brought up the first relics from 40 ft down - a box of fine English china.
Using this, they got money to get a LOT of digging equipment. In just 4 months they emptied the holds, got the boilers, the front and rear end, and the farmer didn't even miss a planting cycle. What next except to open a Museum in Kansas City. It's really worthwhile. They've cleaned and cataloged about half and have hundreds of thousands of artifacts on display. Hundreds of Thousands. Shoes, carpentry tools, gin, perfume, pen nibs, printing type, thread, needles, bolts of cloth, pickles (still edible), bitters, household hardware, hundreds of thimbles, clay pipes, hats, shirts, belt buckles, etc. etc. etc. We could fill this page with pictures (can you fill a web page?).
They seem absolutely fanatical about restoring or preserving everything and the ongoing process is financed from the $12 entry fee to the museum. Right now they were working on separating and saving a few hundred pounds of rusty nails.



In the middle of Kansas, stop at the Hodgden House Museum Complex in Ellsworth. For $3 Evelyn, an octogenarian, will show you through the house, a schoolhouse, church, and two buildings of artifacts.
Normally little county museums are mostly an arrowhead collection but this one is different. It's still small but we spent 90 fascinating minutes there. Maybe because everything is really old and donated by local residents. Maybe because of Evelyn. She has 6 siblings still living and all 9 of her children are still living. She knows most everyone who donated stuff. Hope she's still there when you visit.


If you grew up before Polio was cured you'll recognize an now-totally-obsolete iron lung.

Folding windmill, still, and a now-rare linotype.
When in Hays, before stopping in at the Lb Brewery, eat at Al's Chickenette. Try the Chicken Toes - they're french fry sized strips fried just right to make all the water inside explode into little pockets. Combine this with, of course, the lard-fried hand-cut french fries.

Kansas is pretty flat. Not as flat as Illinois, but it's pretty flat. So when you spot an 80-ft tall easel holding Van Gogh's "Sunflowers" you gotta stop in Goodland.

But the trip to the Kit Carson County Carousel in Burlington, CO isn't worth it except during June through August. It's closed the rest of the year but does have a window to peek through

Strasburg, CO's monument to the Golden Spike is worth every bit of the 10 minutes you'll need to spend off I-70. It's only a plaque but we'll bet you didn't know the 1869 Promontory Point, UT, celebration didn't actually complete a rail line coast to coast. Seems the rails were complete in 1870 in Strasburg. Or were they? Actually people had to ferry across the Mississippi at Omaha until 1872.

Stopped at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs on the way back. It's a free city park spotlighting where some of the sediment of the old mid-continent ocean got pushed vertically and exposed by erosion. A bit crowded on the weekend but truly spectacular. Took tons of pictures even though the sky was spotty. Sorry for the download time.






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